Passionate for smokin'

Jean Paré, founder of the Company's Coming cookbook series, is an Alberta success story of a woman who over the course of 25 years launched a small catering company that grew into an international cookbook publishing empire.

In her July release of Smokin', Eh, she pairs up with Vancouver chef Ted Anderson and Métis chef Gregory Lepine for a practical guide to Canadian hot and cold smoking.

And yes, Canadian smoking has a different flavour from that of our southern neighbours. While cooks south of the 49th burn pecan, hickory and mesquite, Canadians use alder, apple, oak and maple.

Smoking food – whether it's beef, pork, lamb, poultry, fish, vegetables, cheeses or sides – is both a delicate art and science. And Canada is fortunate to share many traditions from First Nations down to the newest immigrants.

At first glance, the cookbook draws you in with magnificently illustrated colour photography. Not many books can leave you hungry just by flipping pages.

But don't be tempted by just the photos.

The pattern of delivering information these three authors have devised is very well thought out. The first 10 or so pages offer an introduction that includes regional styles of smoking. Anderson even describes different smoking techniques and tips to help cooks develop their preferred method of preparation.

In addition, chapters are divided one from the other with workable tidbits of information that includes information on various types of smokers, useful equipment and choices of wood fuel.

Best of all, even if you don't start right at the introduction, it is still easy to understand what this tastefully designed cookbook is all about.

Diversity is key in this recipe collection and each one includes a quick nutritional guide for anyone conscious about calories, fibre, cholesterol, carbohydrates or sodium.

The no-fuss scratch recipes with rich, complex flavours use ingredients easily available at any local grocery stores. There's no need to drive out of your way to buy one ingredient.

With three authors, it's difficult to relate personal experiences in the kitchen. However, each recipe includes special tips for optimal success. Whether you are a long time veteran or a first-time newbie, Smokin', Eh is filled with good information and colourful, easy-to-use recipes.

Sticky Soy Sauce Beef Ribs

Racks of beef back ribs 2 (about 4 lbs., 1.8 kg, each)

Sea salt 2 tsp. 10 mL

Light soy sauce 1 cup 250 mL

Fish sauce 1/4 cup 60 mL

Brown sugar, packed 1/2 cup 125 mL

Garlic cloves, smashed 5 5

Cranks of black pepper 10 10

Cornstarch 2 tbsp. 30 mL

Water 2 tbsp. 30 mL

Green onions, finely sliced 4 4

Toasted, sesame seeds 1 tbsp. 15 mL

Fried shallots 1 cup 250 mL

Remove membrane from the back of the ribs. Season ribs with sea salt on both sides, and chill in the fridge overnight.

For the sauce, combine the next five ingredients in a medium saucepot and bring to a simmer gently for about five minutes.

Make a slurry with cornstarch and water, then add 3/4 to the sauce. Simmer until sauce is thick and glossy. If it looks too runny, add the rest of the slurry and simmer again. Remove the garlic cloves and chill the sauce until you need it.

Preheat your smoking device to 220°F (105°C) using oak. Smoke the ribs for eight hours, basting every hour after the first five hours. Do a pull test to check for tenderness.

Place the meat on a cutting board, bone side down, and cut into individual ribs. Right before serving, sprinkle with green onion, sesame seeds and fried shallots. Makes six servings.

One serving: 870 calories; 30 g total fat (12 g mono, 2 g poly, 10 g sat); 270 mg cholesterol; 41 g carbohydrate (1 g fibre, 22 g sugar); 106 g protein; 3370 mg sodium

Cold-smoked Sockeye Salmon

Sea salt 3/4 cup 175 mL

Granulated sugar 1 1/3 cups 325 mL

Garlic cloves 4 4

Green onions, finely sliced 8 8

Italian parsley, chopped 1/2 cup 125 mL

Sockeye salmon fillets, skin on, bones removed (about 1.4 kg each)

Mix sea salt, sugar, garlic, green onion and parsley in a medium mixing bowl until well combined.

In a clean, non-reactive dish place a thick layer of the salt mixture, followed by the salmon, skin side down. Spread the remaining cure over the fish, ensuring an even coverage.

Cover dish with plastic wrap, then place a baking tray on top of the fish. Add weight to the tray – four or five cans of soup will do the trick – to help draw the moisture out of the fish. In about 24 hours, check the fish to see if it is cured. It will be firm to the touch at its thickest point. If not, check again in a few more hours, until it is firm.

Rinse the fish until all traces of the cure are gone. Pat dry and refrigerate for another 12 hours, to form a pellicle.

To start a cold smoke, set up your smoking device using alder wood, keeping the temperature below 68°F (20°C). Smoke the fish for three hours, monitoring the temperature frequently. Refrigerate promptly after smoking.

The salmon will keep for only five days in the fridge, but it freezes well. Serve as an appetizer, thinly sliced with a classic garnish of sour cream, capers and thinly sliced red onions. Makes 20 servings.

One serving: 210 calories; 9 g total fat (3 g mono, 3.5 g poly, 1.5 g sat); 75 mg cholesterol; 2 g carbohydrate (0 g fibre, 2 g sugar); 28 g protein; 700 mg sodium

Tip: Adding bowls of salted ice to the smoker can help keep the temperature low. As well, try to pick a cool day – it will be much easier to keep the smoke cool than on a super-hot summer day.

Smoked Eggplant Dip

Medium Japanese eggplant 4 4

Tahini 2 tbsp. 30 mL

Lemon, juiced 1 1

Garlic clove, peeled and smashed 1 1

Ground cumin seed 1/4 tsp. 1 mL

Mild paprika 1/2 tsp. 2 mL

Extra virgin olive oil 7/8 cup 200 mL

Sea salt 1 tsp. 5 mL

Preheat your smoking device to 250°F (120°C) using oak wood. Prick the eggplants with a fork and place them on a smoking rack. Smoke for around four hours, until very soft when squeezed. Once cool, split the eggplants lengthways and scoop out the flesh.

Combine the eggplant flesh, tahini, lemon juice, garlic and spices in a food processor and whirl until smooth.

With the food processor running, slowly pour in the olive oil, creating a smooth, creamy emulsion. Season with salt. Chill for at least one hour, preferably overnight, before serving. Makes two cups (500 mL).

1/2 cup (125 mL): 570 calories; 53 g total fat (40 g mono, 5 g poly, 8 g sat); 0 mg cholesterol; 28 g carbohydrate (16 g fibre, 11 g sugar); 6 g protein; 550 mg sodium

Smoked Pork Butt

Coriander seed 1 tsp. 5 mL

Cumin seed 1 tsp. 5 mL

Mustard seed 1 tsp. 5 mL

Sea salt 2 tbsp. 30 mL

Brown sugar 1/3 cup 75 mL

Freshly ground black pepper 1/4 tsp. 1 mL

Onion powder 1 tsp. 5 mL

Garlic powder 1/2 tsp. 2 mL

Mild paprika 1 tbsp. 15 mL

Cayenne pepper 1/4 tsp. 1 mL

Whole pork butt (about 8 lbs., 3.6 kg)

Yellow mustard 1 tbsp. 15 mL

For the rub, grind the coriander, cumin and mustard seeds into a powder. Combine with the next seven ingredients and mix well.

Slather the meat with the mustard. Season the pork butt aggressively with the rub, working it into the mustard so it will create a dark, crusty "bark" on the outside once cooked.

Preheat your smoking device to 225°F (110°C) using apple wood. Place the meat on a smoking rack and insert a thermometer probe into the thickest part. Place the meat into the smoker. Smoke until the internal temperature reaches 200°F (95°C), about six to eight hours.

Let the meat rest for 30 minutes wrapped in aluminum foil, then shred with gloved hands, or two forks, and serve. Makes 10 servings.

One serving: 570 calories; 24 g total fat (11 g mono, 2.5 g poly, 8 g sat); 230 mg cholesterol; 7 g carbohydrate (trace fibre, 6 g sugar); 77 g protein; 1,590 mg sodium