Chinese restaurants create a steady hum of people – clattering chopsticks, waiters barking orders, adults laughing and children blowing bubbles in pop.
That’s how visual artist Edith Chu remembers life growing up in a family-owned Chinese restaurant. Chu features Sweet and Sour Memories, a salute honouring her parents’ dedication, struggles and rewards in operating Edmonton’s Szechuen Restaurant. The exhibition opens this week at Art Gallery of St. Albert and runs until May 1.
Through a series of 20 plus realistic paintings, pencil sketches and photographs, Szechuen Cuisine, comes to life giving the viewer a behind-the-scenes look. Instead of a brick-and-mortar restaurant’s ongoing clatter and buzz, this display is serene, contemplative and at times gently humorous.
“You get an intimate introduction to her world and her experiences and all the different elements about growing up in a restaurant and that emotional experience,” said Emily Baker, gallery curator.
The artist’s parents, Richard and Doris Chu, had originally left Hong Kong for Paris where Richard gave up his accounting career for a new start as a chef. The couple settled in Edmonton in the 1970s and opened Szechuen Cuisine in 1984. The restaurant remained open until Richard retired in 2007.
“Edith mentioned the process gave her an appreciation for what their life was like. She remembers being a kid and being grumpy because she wanted to go to the mall with friends. But with this show, she’s come to realize the sacrifices her parents made so she and her brothers could have a better life,” Baker said.
One gallery wall is covered with seven waiters’ guest checks or notepads they write an order on. Chu has created pencil sketches of her family and delicately silk screened them into the guest checks. Her father cooking over a hot stove in the kitchen, her mother keeping books at front of house, an aunt behind the bar and a line cook enjoying a plate of food during staff appreciation night are all immortalized.
“She uses different media to express a specific memory. Her work speaks for her and offer insights into her life growing up and the importance of family. In hindsight, it all comes through in her work.”
Recognizing the role Chinese restaurants have played in the province, Chu painted watercolours of eateries including Golden Inn Restaurant (Calgary Chinatown), the Lingnan (Edmonton), Double Greeting Won Ton House (Edmonton) and Bing’s Restaurant (Stony Plain). Grouped together, these paintings are sure to invite conversation and comparison.
Baker notes that virtually every town and city in Alberta had a restaurant that served a westernized version of Chinese foods. They were family go-to place for inexpensive meals with hearty helpings. And they were one of the few restaurants open from early morning to late night.
“In addition to serving food, they became community spaces. For a little while Bing’s offered childcare. They were a community hub. Some of the small-town restaurants were used as banks and post offices. And on hockey night, some put the radio on for customers.”
In short, Sweet and Sour Memories tells a story of challenges and survival nurtured by family togetherness.
“Come. Learn and feel. Even if this is not part of your family story, the chances are it’s a part of someone’s history you know. It’s a beautiful way to learn about someone else’s history, and when you’re done, go out to a Chinese restaurant and eat.”
A virtual tour on Facebook live takes place March 26 at noon followed by an artist talk/reception on March 27 from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. An in-person tour is on April 3 at 6:30 p.m. In a first time event, the art gallery is partnering with Musée Heritage for a co-curator tour of both exhibitions. It is on April 4 at 3 p.m.
