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Home grown: The way forward in food is seasonal, fresh, local … and sustainable

It’s no wonder Canada is celebrating 2016 as the United Nations International Year of Pulses (IYP).

It’s no wonder Canada is celebrating 2016 as the United Nations International Year of Pulses (IYP). As the world’s largest producer and exporter of dry peas and lentils, (shipped to over 150 countries each year) pulses are a $3-billion industry and Canada’s fifth-largest crop after wheat, canola, corn and barley.

To mark the designation, Canada’s pulse industry will host events throughout 2016 to educate Canadians about the health and environmental benefits of eating beans, legumes etc. And education is a key piece in the growing movement toward eating this sustainable, nutritious, affordable and eco-conscious food – because for many Canadians, the question quickly arises, “what is a pulse? And how do I cook with it?”

Pulses are edible seeds of plants in the legume family – crops harvested solely as dry grains and different from other vegetable crops that are harvested while still green. Hundreds of varieties are grown around the globe, including dry peas, chickpeas, lentils and beans (kidney, pinto, navy, black-eyed and more). Called the food of the future, one of the most versatile foods on the planet, and a simple, humble superfood, there’s no end to the superlatives thrown the way of these humble seeds – tiny powerhouses of fibre and protein that are low in fat and enrich the soil they grow in.

In B.C. author Dan Jason’s new book The Power of Pulses, he refers to the five main types of pulses that grow well in North America: peas, favas, lentils, chickpeas and beans. Black bean burger, anyone? How about black bean brownies?

“Demand for pulses is only going to increase – they taste good and are a healthy source of protein, plus they provide income for farm families around the world,” said Alberta farmer Ted Menzies.

Lalitha Taylor, an Edmonton-based registered dietitian, said she regularly counsels patients on the many benefits of beans and all pulses, from their high-fibre content (seven to 10 grams of fibre in cup of pulses) and minerals like iron, zinc, phosphorous and B vitamins, to their role in reducing the environmental footprint of what’s in the grocery cart.

“People are scared to try them – especially the dry lentils and beans, and aren’t sure how to incorporate them into their diets,” said Taylor. “I suggest starting with canned beans or lentils – drained and rinsed – they’re simple to add to soups, salad, mains and even desserts – brownies, lentil fudge and snack bars. Lentils have a neutral flavour, so it’s easy to do. I also take people on grocery shopping tours and show them how economical and easy it is to add pulses to the diet.”

Taylor said that at a time when meat prices and food costs overall continue to rise, substituting cheap lentils makes great sense, whether it’s to stretch a meat-based meal (adding lentils to meatloaf or lasagna, for example) or by using pulses for a meatless meal once a week.

“It’s less than $2 for a can of beans – even cheaper for a bag of dry ones that you soak overnight. Pulses offer a great bang for the buck,” said Taylor, who added that because of the protein and fibre that makes one feel fuller, longer, there’s the added benefit of weight management that can come with including pulses in the diet. “Every dietitian encourages eating less red meat to lower cholesterol and help fight hypertension and cardio-vascular disease. So substituting a pulse-based meal more often is great for men and women of every age. Pulses also lower the glycemic index, and are virtually gluten-free. So they can help those with celiac and diabetes too. ”

Taylor said that while Albertans (and many Canadians) are meat-and-potatoes folk, it’s important to have the conversation about introducing pulses into the diet, for health, economic and environmental reasons.

“It takes 50 litres of water to produce one kilogram of pulses, but 13,000 litres of water to produce one kilo of beef. Pulses create less greenhouse gas emissions and reduce our carbon footprint. Their environmental benefits are huge,” she said.

“And it’s easier than ever to find pulses at the store. Look on the highest and lowest shelves, where you’ll find the cheapest items, like cans and bags of beans and lentils. There’s Superstore’s blue choice options (with less sodium) and even specialty foods like black bean pasta at Costco and The Italian Centre. Pulses have always been around, but as people become more aware of them there will be bigger demand on grocers to bring in specialty items, etc. And there’s so many cookbooks and recipes online that show quick and simple ideas for cooking – 10-minute lentil burgers – it’s easier than ever to get on board with lentils.”

Taylor recommends those new to eating pulses to introduce them slowly, so the body can adapt to a higher-fibre diet.

“Some people can bloat and get gassy, so drink plenty of water and take it slowly,” she said.

For recipes and further information, Taylor recommends pulsecanada.com or lentils.ca, where Chef Michael Smith does a bang-up job of explaining all you need to know about lentils – recipes included.

According to a recent Alberta Agriculture and Rural Development report, more than 90 per cent of Alberta households bought food grown in this province in the last year, with one-third saying they’d buy more local fare in the year ahead. Such an increased focus on local goods becomes even more appealing when the U.S. exchange rates make imported produce a costly alternative, according to Spud.ca Edmonton’s managing director Corbin Bourree. The company’s delivery service of sustainable, organic and local-as-possible produce (which delivers to St. Albert on Thursdays) reports a 50-per-cent year-over-year growth.

“We work with local farmers – those with roots in the community. People would rather spend their grocery money on a local business and pay local farmers for healthy, high quality food,” Bourree said.

John Schneider has been certified organic since 2007 with Gold Forest Grains. Growing and stone-milling heritage grains like spelt, wheat and more on 300 acres near Morinville, Schneider said buzzwords like organic, heritage, heirloom, local and fresh simply mean that people care about where their food is coming from.

“Our sales increase every year – flours fly off the table each weekend at the farmers’ market, whether it’s for home cooks, bakeries or restaurant chefs. Everyone is sourcing fresh, local ingredients wherever possible,” he said.

Edmonton’s Earth’s General Store sees the local focus growing too. Store-owner Michael Kalmanovitch said there will always be people who want something local, independent and organic in the grocery cart.

“Even big groceries are expanding their organic sections by up to 20 per cent a year,” he said. “People want simpler, less-processed goods too. Everyone still has to eat, and more are choosing to support small, local suppliers and organic options wherever they can.”

Earth’s General Store now offers a bicycle grocery delivery service in the city, and has recently added occasional in-store classes on creating local, healthy fare such as microgreens.

DID YOU KNOW?

Between 2010 and 2013, 173 countries grew and exported pulses, though the biggest producers in 2015 were India, Canada, Myanmar, China, Nigeria and Brazil. In the last decade, world production of pulses grew to a yearly volume of 50 to 60 million tonnes.

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