On July 2 a group of 27 Bellerose Composite High School students, alumni, staff and volunteers flew to Kauai, Hawaii to hike the Kalalau Trail. The rather intense 11 mile trail is ranked by National Geographic as one of the top 10 hikes in the world. After acclimatizing for a couple of days, we began the hike on July 5.
Kauai, Hawaii – Day 3
Up at four, my stomach was queasy and I felt somewhat flu-ish. What I thought was lack of sleep and nerves and late night oatmeal would dog many of us for the trip.
The taxis dropped us at Kee Beach and the adventure began. For the next five days we would be up early, begin our hike in the cool of the morning, puffing up one side of a ridge and down the other. In valley bottoms there would be refreshing streams and pools but on the ridge tops it would be sweltering and humid. Through the sweet smell of guava and passion fruit rotting on the trail would waft the smell of our own selves. Sunscreen ran down our necks and sweat streaked the trail dust on our legs. We sucked our water bladders dry and refilled them continually. Cool filtered stream water would become warm. And no one complained. Below us stretched the unreal blueness of the South Pacific and lining the trail were hyper-sized yucca trees and other massive succulents. They were the redwoods of the islands and we were so small in comparison.
We experienced a few blisters. Sore hips and shoulders, common to the start of a backpacking trip were common. What was unnerving was the nausea and upset stomachs in several of our group – by the end of the trip it would spread to about half of our members. Looking to be a heat-related issue, it also mirrored what I felt before we started. Sure enough, there was no correlation to water consumption or daily activities. The bug, 24 to 36 hours, had to be weathered.
Honokoa campground, the halfway point of the trip in, is set along a creek that widens into pools, each feeding the next. Our vision of heaven had a focus. Drop the packs and lay in the cool clear water. Life stripped bare, our priorities became clear. Cool down, drink, eat, visit. No electronics intruded and it appeared that, through the sheer hard work of each day, the desire or need for modern toys was wiped clean, just like our salty bodies in the mountain stream.
And then there is Kalalau, our end point and truly a setting unique in the islands. There is no place in Hawaii that is so isolated and that requires such effort to see. One has to kayak or hike in. Period. Despite buzzing of the tourist helicopters, we felt removed from the business of the modern world.
The people of Kalalau got us talking. There were some, like us, who were in for the restricted five days. Others were full-time residents, staying for months or even years. And then there were the young children being raised in the valley. That issue made for stirring conversation regarding the future for which parents prepare their kids. A childhood of frolicking on the beach in an other worldly setting seemed idyllic to some. To others, the issues ran deep. Was this "hippie lifestyle" fair to the kids who would only know this backwoods existence? Active-minded young people can bring unique perspectives to a debate and, as parents and teachers, we experience that daily. On this extended field trip, no topic was taboo.
Our food selections were limited but were supplemented by fresh cherry tomatoes, guava, passion fruit and limes. We ate until the day's rations were done and no more. Sometimes, with the planning and packing in place, our bellies were satisfied. Some days some members looked longingly at what another cooking group had left and cleaned up the scraps. There were no leftovers. Ever.
The hike out seemed short. The "crawler's ledge" section – a narrowing of the trail that requires care and precautions – we had approached with trepidation on the way in. Now it was a minor distraction. The ups and downs were shorter and less steep, the temperatures less daunting. The 4:00 a.m. wake ups helped, and there was no audible complaining. We packed by headlamps, ate in dim light and began our walk at dawn.
And then we were at the trailhead. Boots off, outdoor showers and, once the vans arrived, hours of relaxation, food and iced drinks in Hanalei.
It was a pleasure to share another, very intense week in paradise with eager, bright and committed young people. The shared leadership amongst the adults and the co-operation by everyone made this demanding trip rewarding beyond words. And not just for the kids – all grew as a result of this trip. We are changed, having taken on this challenge and no one who was not part of our team, our family – our ohana – can know what we faced as individuals and as a group.
It was a privilege to have been a part of such a tremendous experience.
Aloha.
