Traveling around the world can be a drag … an expensive time-lagging drag. Thankfully, we can use our stomachs to pretend that we’re traipsing from continent to continent all within the city proper. There’s a series of international delights within the restaurant booths all over town. You want to go around the world in 80 days? One quick glimpse at the Connect St. Albert app on my phone shows how to go around the world in 80 restaurants.
Actually, there are 97 in total, if you’re counting coffee shops and cafĂ©s, bars and pubs, and all of the handy fast food joints on the strip too. Set yourself out one fine morning and you’ll be able to be a gustatory tourist at the culinary kitchens of countries from Asia to Europe to the Americas, and even Australia. The Outback Steakhouse counts as Aussie, yes? The verdict is yes, especially when you see the ‘Aussie-tizers’ on the menu although it could otherwise pass for a standard burger-and-fry joint.
And for that matter, Swiss Chalet might not be notably from Switzerland except in name, but we’ll accept it for the sake of the argument. I’m sure that the Swiss eat a lot of chicken, and certainly the deal is sealed with that delicious gravy in a bowl for people to dip just like they would dip bread into a cheese fondue after a brisk day shushing to and fro on the Alps.
When it comes to authentic worldly eating, St. Albert has a lot of bases covered. Just ask Jen Pulham, one of the people behind the new Cerdo Tacos + Tequila on Perron Street. It’s important to distinguish oneself from one’s competitors, she said, so genuine Mexican food “by three non-Mexicans” as its advertising says.
“It was one of the only cuisines not offered in St. Albert,” she said, explaining the choice. “We like to work with our neighbours and all of the other restaurants. We thought it was something St. Albert was really lacking.”
Where else could you get such wonders as migas (with D’Arcy’s chorizo no less), chilaquiles, Yucatán pescado, or pork carnitas, one of the crowd faves. Of course, there’s also the house salsa made fresh daily. The staff were taught some really good authentic recipes by a woman who emigrated from Mexico, she continued.
“We try and keep it as authentic as we can. We make trips to the Mexican market weekly and keep everything as authentic as we can … but none of us is Mexican. About as far from it as you can guess.”
And yes … there’s also tequila, just as the name suggests. You could enjoy a sip of the delicious drink on its patio (opening soon) and pretend you’re on the Caribbean coast.
If Mexican isn’t your thing, Jack’s Burger Shack is right next door. One look up and down the block you will find some other great places too (San Remo Italian Bistro and Luisa Ristorante for the pasta lover, the Cajun House has Louisiana alligator boudin on the menu and Sushi Park just opened last year to serve the downtown core with delicious Japanese fare.) There’s a smorgasbord of others there but too many to mention, in fact.
Head north up St. Albert Trail and you will come across what I like to call the ‘Global District’. Within a few blocks of each other, you could enjoy Chinese at the Wok House, fish ’n’ chips at O’Máille’s Irish Pub, Thai Mekong for your spicy Thai and Laotian fix, New Asian Village for the best – and only – Indian curry, and Taste of Ukraine for pierogies, studynetz and holubtsi cabbage rolls just like you were there.
On the video posted on its website, Taste of Ukraine’s Orysia Wozniak gives the place its perfect tagline: “It’s like a trip to Ukraine without packing your suitcase.” She said that the entire purpose of the family-owned restaurant was to give customers an authentic experience “as if they were actually in Ukraine.” They also do catering and bulk orders in case you just have to take extras home for your family.
Practically next door is Nello’s Cucina Italiana, one of the city’s primo destinations for authentic Italian food. Now in its second generation of ownership, the restaurant boasts a loyal clientele who yearn for a taste of the old country. Owner Tony Saporito said that even Italians have frequented the establishment and given it their approval.
“They’re very comfortable with the fact that it’s done right. I do have a lot of people that travel to Italy and say that sometimes we’re better… which is very flattering.”
He proudly noted that his customers rave about two ‘L’s: the lamb and the lobster.
“The lamb chops that we do here… we have people coming from Leduc. They make the drive to come for the lamb,” he began.
The lobster tagliatelle has a good handful of lobster tails with tiger prawns and scallops offered with a tomato, cream or a Gigi (tomato cream rosé) sauce.
“It’s done on a bed of pasta, we put all on the seafood on top, and away we go.”
I personally apologize for drooling. Some things can’t be helped.
If your wanderlusting tastes prefer to keep you closer to home, there’s always 12 Acres. It’s grown locally and served locally. The menu changes on a daily and even hourly basis, depending on what’s available and how many people order it before you. That’s why they use tablet computers for their menus. Interesting concept: the food isn’t too far away from the farm to the table.
Scott’s faves and special mentions: I always go to Pho Anh Sang for the best Vietnamese pho with excellent portions on a tight budget, while Yuzen gets my vote for the most authentic and wonderful sushi and sashimi. Get there early, as space fills up fast and the line-up gets longer by the minute. If you’re into the good ol’ British pub scene without the pretense, however, then the Crown & Tower is far and away the best. While I’m not much into Chinese food, I have it on reasonably good authority that Lingnan Express is the place to go when you’re on the go.
What’s missing? While Opa! offers serviceable Greek food in a fast food atmosphere, this city sure needs a proper sit-down restaurant where the ouzo can flow and the people can dance. Aside from that, I sure wish that there were also Korean, Ethiopian, and a Persian (or any kind of Middle Eastern) restaurants. There are major gaps to be filled there. While we do have a few donair shops around town (including Aladdin Donair right near the Gazette in Campbell Park) and Dedo’s Food Truck (which really is around town) with its excellent shawarma, what I’d really like is to sit down somewhere and soak in the aromas and flavours of Iran. Is that so much to ask?
Side note: Nello’s Cucina Italiana, Swiss Chalet, Ohana-Ya, Yuzen, and O’Máille’s are all just a few of the restaurants that are participating in the Gazette’s Dine St. Albert promotion. The postcard-sized passport offers dining deals throughout the end of August. There are still some cards available for purchase from our reception desk for $35. The Gazette is located at 340 Carleton Dr. Call us at 780-460-5500 for more information.
